Allison Stroman - In an industry rife with sustainability issues, a circular model would prove advantageous. A circular fashion model “asks the industry to close the loop on production, including responsible manufacturing, use and end-of-life for every garment” according to Good On You. This means that garments are designed with longevity, sustainability, and recyclability in mind. These considerations make it such that the fashion industry can reduce waste. According to the World Economic Forum, clothing production continues to rise while actual use before throwing an item out is shrinking. This lack of balance between the two can be in part attributed to the continued popularity of fast fashion and single-wear culture. That being said, neither of these models are sustainable. Enter the circular economy, which “aims to address the environmental, social and waste impacts whilst changing our consumer habits” to preserve the environment and the people involved in the garment industry, especially those in production who are regularly subjected to low pay, unsafe working conditions, and many other rights violations.
Even though it is clear that change is needed, it is scary to make the shift from what has been the status quo for years to something new. But, the circular fashion model is not too far from where we are now. For instance, the already popular resale and rental markets, a common way for people to get pieces for lower prices or for events, will increase to cover more of the clothing industry. In this case, the circularity comes from pieces staying in use for longer as they cycle through multiple closets with intermittent stops at resellers or rental companies. Therefore, when buying clothes, consumers will see them as more of an “investment” than a one-off purchase which in turn lowers the amount of inventory companies need to produce. Despite the initial scare this may cause some brands, lowering the amount of inventory created and stored actually lowers costs which can help brands focus more on developing pieces for quality and with real, actionable sustainability practices at their core.
With new terminology comes an age-old problem: what does it actually mean and how do we know it won’t turn into yet another disguise for greenwashing?
As more brands use sustainability to hide their dodgy practices, advocates for a circular model call for change from governing bodies alongside the power of consumers. This leaves less room for brands to make their own definition of the term and instead focuses resources on rewriting the entire system to support those involved and the environment.
One major innovator and leader in the push for a circular fashion industry is The Ellen Macarthur Foundation, a “charity committed to creating a circular economy, which is designed to eliminate waste and pollution, circulate products and materials (at their highest value), and regenerate nature”. Additionally, they create “evidence-based original research on the benefits of a circular economy” which can be found on their website. With partners ranging from governments, schools, businesses, and more, The Ellen Macarthur Foundation provides a Network to “build circular economy capacity, address common barriers to progress, understand the necessary enabling conditions, and pilot circular economy practices” through collaboration, discussion, and increased understanding. This Network provides a strong base for innovation in many different industries including fashion.
In their overview for the research and materials for the fashion industry, The Ellen Macarthur Foundation states, “To solve the problem, we must redesign the way our clothes are made and used. Building an industry that designs products to be: used more, made to be made again and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs” and places strong emphasis on the need for systemic change. Additionally, the overview emphasizes collaboration, a necessary yet frequently overlooked pillar for change and improvement: “Collaboration is key. Working with partners across the supply chain, securing buy-in from leaders and sharing knowledge creates the conditions for broader, industry-wide change. It’s time to step up the pace and scale of progress.”
In their work, The Ellen Macarthur Foundation has created a clear document outlining what a circular fashion industry will look like:
The vision defines the key pillars for creating products, which includes “apparel, footwear, accessories”, as designed so they can be “used more”, “made to be made again”, and “made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs”.
For the first pillar, “used more” means that more businesses implement rental and resale platforms that “keep products at their highest value” so as to separate growth from consuming more and more resources. This pillar also states that products are designed with longevity and durability in mind to support the resale or rental of such items and that what is made is used, so inventory shrinks to focus on what is selling rather than on holding as much as possible. Education plays an important role in this with the onus falling on businesses to “empower users with the necessary knowledge, tools, and services to maintain the physical and emotional appeal of their products,” increasing the longevity of each piece.
The second pillar, “made to be made again” eliminates the use of landfills and incinerators by creating products and using materials that are “designed and manufactured to be disassembled so that they can be reused, remade, recycled, and - where relevant, and after maximum use and cycling - safely composted”. Furthermore, this pillar states that businesses should use as little packaging as possible and what is used comes from “reusable, recyclable, or compostable materials”. For this, the Foundation provides more information in their documents on packaging materials like plastics. In remaking products, businesses practice collection and sorting to power recycling and reuse with the end-of-life care for products turning towards composting after the “maximum use and cycling”. This means that businesses and governments work together to create and support infrastructure changes including improved take-back plans, funding, and proper regulations.
The third and final pillar, “made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs” draws in what is currently referred to as sustainability, but this pillar exists in conjunction with the others to create systemic, long-lasting, regulated change. This pillar prioritizes the “health of people and ecosystems” through ensuring that “[p]roducts and their materials are free from hazardous substances” and they do not leach any hazardous substances into the environment. Furthermore, “[m]icrofibres that may cause harm are prevented from reaching the environment, either by design or collection” which increase protections for all those involved and the environment. Resource optimization plays an important role in this pillar, with businesses needing to effectively and efficiently use their resources to avoid overuse and exploitation. This is reinforced with the statement that “[p]roduction (including inputs used during manufacturing and processing) is fully decoupled from the consumption of finite resources,” meaning that recycled materials and regenerative practices become the priority, byproducts are minimized and, if not minimized, used again in production, products coming back from consumers are used, and renewable energy is used to power the whole process.
“In a circular economy, waste and pollution are designed out, and products and materials are kept in use.” - The Ellen Macarthur Foundation
The Foundation created The Fashion ReModel as a “demonstration project… to identify solutions and unlock barriers in order to scale circular business models and begin to decouple revenue from production” which further the vision outlined in the document cited above. The project overview calls on the fashion industry’s innate creativity to serve as the motor for change:
“The fashion industry is rooted in reinvention, with the power to shape desire, trends and culture. By harnessing this innovative and creative potential, the industry can make circular business models the norm. This is the next step towards a more resilient fashion industry – one where businesses create diverse income streams and foster new connections with customers, and where policymakers support the enabling conditions for circular business models to thrive.”
This project uses three pillars for its work: “product design, circular business models, and infrastructure”. The first pillar restates the key elements in the Foundation’s vision for the fashion industry that all products are designed “to be used more, made to be made again, and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs”. The second pillar emphasizes the need to “decouple revenue from the production of new clothes” and instead focus on and foster growth in opportunities to keep what is already made in circulation. Finally, the third pillar reinforces the need for collaboration and working together to maintain a “diverse and highly connected network between all actors in the fashion system” which includes governments, workers, designers, and consumers in bettering the fashion industry as a whole.
While this may seem like a bunch of lofty ideals and overly optimistic daydreaming, a circular economy and fashion industry is possible, with many brands already adopting elements of the concept like take-back bags and resale platforms. But, we need more. Supporting organizations that focus on a circular approach and education, like The Ellen Macarthur Foundation and Repurpose Wardrobe, lays the foundation for continued growth and education with the attainable end goal of a better fashion industry.